Tallow, Plant Oils and the Skin Barrier: Why Formulation Beats Trends

Tallow, Trends, and Thoughtful Skincare

If you’ve spent any time in handmade skincare recently, you’ve likely noticed a surge in tallow-based products; often promoted as “ancestral,” “deeply moisturizing,” or even “superior”.

At Douglas Smith Soap Co., we’re frequently asked whether we use tallow; or why we choose not to...

Rather than relying on buzzwords or trend cycles, we believe skincare decisions deserve a closer look at how products actually work on skin.

Our goal is simple: to help you make informed choices. Choices grounded in formulation science over marketing hype.

Understanding the Skin Barrier

The skin barrier (stratum corneum) is the body’s outermost defense, composed of skin cells and lipids; primarily ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. When functioning well, skin feels comfortable and resilient; when disrupted, it may feel dry, irritated, or prone to breakouts (Elias, 2012).

Most skincare products, regardless of trend, aim to support this barrier over time.

Enter Tallow

Tallow is rendered animal fat, most commonly from beef. Its fatty acid profile is rich in palmitic, stearic, and oleic acids, with trace lauric and minor myristic acids (Draelos, 2018; Nogoy et al., 2022).

In leave-on products, these fats can:

• Create a smooth glide

• Form an occlusive layer that reduces moisture loss

• Provide temporary softness after application

  
  

In soap, they contribute to:

• Hard, long-lasting bars

• Dense, creamy lather

• A short-term sense of softness after washing

  
  

These effects are often associated with “good skincare,” which helps explain tallow’s popularity.

But they are not unique to tallow.

Where the Claims Outpace the Evidence ("deeply moisturizing", "superior").

"Deeply moisturizing": Tallow is an occlusive. Occlusives spread across the skin’s surface and form a continuous film that sits on top of the stratum corneum. They do not penetrate deeply into the skin, but they do flow and distribute to fill microscopic gaps between skin cells.

Occulsives slow water loss but do not hydrate skin or increase water content on their own (Elias, 2012; Zhai et al., 2019). Their effectiveness depends on existing hydration or the presence of humectants.

"Superior" : Well, the dermatology community remains cautious here. Current evidence does not support claims of inherent superiority of tallow over other fats. Instead, there are current and valid concerns that exist around pore clogging and inconsistent formulation practices (Huang et al., 2024; National Geographic, 2025).

Once you understand the limits of occlusives, it becomes clear that real performance isn’t about a single ingredient; it’s about formulation.

Why Formulation Matters More Than Origin

The functional qualities attributed to tallow can be achieved, often more precisely, using thoughtfully selected plant oils (Barel et al., 2014).

In leave-on products, ingredients like:

• Jojoba oil (similar to human sebum)

• Avocado oil (rich in barrier-supportive fatty acids)

• Mango butter (supports hydration and comfort)

  
  

offer consistent performance without heaviness when selected intentionally. Used together, these ingredients provide emollience, barrier support, and comfort without relying on occlusion alone. Their value lies not in trend appeal, but in how their fatty acid profiles complement one another within a well-designed formulation.

In soap, formulation control is key. Tallow’s fatty acid profile varies depending on diet, age, and processing (Abdullah et al., 1987). By contrast, plant oils allow us to design fatty acid ratios deliberately, balancing cleansing, conditioning, hardness, and lather batch after batch, because the distribution of fatty acids in a soap formulation directly influences certain performance characteristics (Soaping Oil & Butter Properties, n.d.).

Furthermore, once oils are saponified, they are no longer oils at all. They become fatty acid salts. What you feel on your skin as you use a soap made with tallow isn’t “tallow,” but stearate, palmitate, and oleate, which can come from either animal or plant sources.

Therefore, performance is determined by formulation balance, not ingredient origin.

Why Tallow Is Trending

Tallow’s resurgence reflects cultural storytelling more than new dermatological evidence. Social media, particularly influencer-driven content, plays a significant role in shaping consumer perception, often amplified by affiliate marketing and brand partnerships (Almatroud et al., 2025).

Labels like “grass-fed” or “ancestral” reinforce ideas of superiority, despite having no meaningful impact on skincare performance (Smith & Lee, 2025).

Our Position

Tallow has a long history in soapmaking, but claims of inherent superiority are not supported by evidence. Decades of cosmetic science show that fatty acid composition, formulation balance, and delivery determine product performance, not whether an ingredient comes from an animal or a plant (Draelos, 2018).

While tallow is sometimes framed as sustainable, it remains an animal-derived ingredient that requires slaughter of sentient beings. At Douglas Smith Soap Co., we define sustainability as renewable sourcing, consistency, and the minimizing of harm.

Plant-based formulations allow us to create effective, inclusive, and reliable body care aligned with both scientific understanding and our company values.

Summary: Beef Tallow Skincare FAQs

1. Is beef tallow actually moisturizing? Beef tallow functions primarily as an occlusive, which means it forms a barrier on the skin to slow transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It does not actively hydrate or increase water content in the stratum corneum. Its effectiveness depends on pre-existing skin hydration or the presence of humectants such as glycerin (Draelos, 2018; Elias, 2012; Zhai et al., 2019).

2. Is tallow better than plant-based oils for skin? Current research does not support claims that beef tallow is inherently superior to plant-based oils. The benefits attributed to tallow derive from its fatty acid composition, which can be replicated—or even enhanced—using thoughtfully formulated plant oils (Barel et al., 2014; Pazyar et al., 2013; Larijani et al., 2024).

3. Can beef tallow clog pores? Dermatologists note that animal fats, including beef tallow, have pore-clogging potential in leave-on products, particularly for acne-prone skin. Results vary depending on formulation, skin type, and usage frequency (Smith, 2024; National Geographic, 2025).

4. Why is tallow trending in skincare right now? The surge in popularity is largely driven by social media, influencer marketing, and “ancestral” wellness narratives, rather than new dermatological evidence. Affiliate codes, brand partnerships, and viral content amplify perception of tallow as “superior” (Almatroud et al., 2025; Worthington, 2025).

5. Why doesn’t Douglas Smith Soap Co. use tallow? We prioritize consistency, performance, and accessibility. Plant-based formulations allow precise control over fatty acid profiles, reliable results batch-to-batch, and alignment with our sustainability and inclusivity values, without relying on animal agriculture (Draelos, 2018; Huang et al., 2024).

Choose Curiosity Over Trend

Effective skincare is discovered through observation—not hype.

Pay attention to how products perform over time: how they cleanse, absorb, and support comfort throughout the day. True performance comes from intentional, evidenced-informed formulation, not nostalgia or marketing language.

Thoughtfully selected plant oils allow us to create products that are accessible, evidence-based, and welcoming to people of all diets, beliefs, and lifestyles.

We invite you to explore our product collection and discover how thoughtful formulation can change the way your skin feels after every use.

As a thank-you for taking the time to read, we’ve included a reader-only online discount. Enter FORMULATION in the promo code at check out for 20% off each item in your order!

Find Them Here

If you made it this far — thank you for reading. If you enjoyed this post, tap the heart 💖 and let us know in the comments what you think!

Treat yourself — and your skin — well,

Michael and Kevin

References plus additional reading (yes, we've thought a LOT about this):

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Almatroud, L., Choi, S., Libson, K., & Ashack, K. (2025). Beef tallow–based skincare claims in social media: A cross-sectional analysis. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 24(12), e70544. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.70544

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